|
: this is from Zippins site....but if you want to see the PICS that go along with it, go to [ http://www.zippinszzone.com. ] Then click on "Z Tech". Then click on "Foglamp Conversion". It will all be there. This is the procedure I used about 8 months ago and it worked the first time for me. No troubles since. Good luck : Fog Lamp Rewiring Tech (flrt) : This list of instructions illustrates the procedure to re-wire the fog lamp relay. This will give the Z owner the ability to use the fog lamps independent of the driving lamps.
: After performing this procedure the fog lamps will turn on whenever the ignition is in the "ON" position. Thus they can also be used as daytime running lights. : This procedure also retains the function of the fog lamps going "OFF" whenever the high beams are activated. This is recommended since it is law in some states (PA for one) to not have other lamps visible when the high beams are activated.
: The reason I devised this procedure was simple. There are other "short-cut" methods to getting the fog lamps to be on with different situations. Unfortunately they are prone to blowing fuses and placing unnecessary drain on the alternator. : --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
: As always proceed at your own risk. If you @#$%! something up it's your own damn fault. I recommend having a service manual handy. I have yet to encounter a Z that has different wiring from my 94TT but you never really know.
: This "tech" does require some basic familiarity with electrical wiring and the ability to read electrical schematics. If you're in doubt please ask some one who knows these things to help out. : All pics are high res. 800x600 cause' I thought that would really help you to see in those tight places. : - zippin
: Parts & Tools:
: 10 mm socket & driver (small)
: various size pliers
: Phillips & flat head screwdrivers
: 20 or 22 gauge multi-strand wire*
: small wire nut and electrical tape : * Never use anything but multi-strand copper wire w/ a good insulation cover. Use of something else (single-strand) is risky. You could crimp and have the wire break over time causing a short or worse, an engine fire - not good!
: Prep:
: Below is a picture of the new wire leads you I recommend you create. The blue crimp male and female connectors are available at Radio Shack. the strand of wire should be from 4" to 5" in length.
: Step I:
: Pop the bonnet open and locate the large black relay and fuse box on the drivers side of the engine bay. On top of the relay box should be white text; note the area where it states "FOG LAMP".
: Carefully remove the cover - it has snaps in several places. Locate the BLUE relay directly underneath the area where the cover indicated FOG LAMP.
: Step II:
: Carefully remove the blue relay. Now turn the driving lamps and fog lamps on. If you removed the correct relay, the fog lamps should not turn on.
: Now is a good time to disconnect the + positive battery lead.
: Step III:
: Now the "fun" begins.
: Using the socket and screwdrivers you need to remove all of the screws holding the bottom of the relay box to the fender sheet metal. There are at least 4, maybe more. I do recall that one was hidden quite well, so check thouroughly before you start yanking stuff. : With the screws removed the bottom should be moveable off of the fender wall. It won't move far - maybe 3" to 4".
: Step IV:
: Underneath the box bottom is probably some electrical tape and a foam pad. These must be peeled away to get at the leads into the relay connection. You are looking for two wires.
: The first is a thick white wire, which is a power source. There are several underneath the relay box. I chose the one leading the closest to the fog relay, which was leading into a small fuseable link. Generally make sure you choose a white wire coming from a wiring bundle and not one coming from a relay. This will somewhat ensure you have a lead coming right from the battery. You need to remove some of the insulation of this white wire to solder in your 1st lead. DO NOT CUT the white wire. : The second wire is that of the fog lamp relay itself. It is a Red wire with a green stripe. Please refer to your service manual for the exact function of this wire. Essentially it comes from the head light relay. It provides power to the fog lamps only when the head lights are "ON". This is how Nissan controls the function of the fog lamps via the head lights.
: The red wire w/ green stripe needs to be cut. The end coming out of the relay needs to be prepared for accepting the 2nd lead. Remove some of the insulation and crimp on the opposite connector to mate with the 1st lead. The other end should be closed up with a wire nut and some electrical tape. Make sure you do a good job of closing it up. : Please reference the wiring diagram for the relay below. This diagram is taken directly from a 1993 Nissan 300ZX Service Manual.
: Step V:
: I know it is difficult to see the wiring in these pictures. It was also hard to take them w/ one hand holding up the relay box bottom.
: The above is the completed wiring job. Now it's time to re-connect the battery and try out your new fogs. : Depending on the particular white wire you choose to use for the relay power you could get a different effect. The one I chose lets power through to the fogs whenever the key is in and the ignition is turned to "ON" or "RUN". : If you chose a different white wire you may have the fogs work without the key in and ignition "ON". I prefer the former as I can never leave the fogs on by accident and drain the battery.
: The Effect:
: If you have achieved the desired effect, then place eveything back together before you close the bonnet. :
Went to Stage II Overnight and did nothing.. :-)
|
